Flat Bottom Boat

We got a late start to our day yesterday, but eventually took a long train ride out to Xochimilco to take a boat ride in the Aztec canal system. We took the green line train twelve stops to the end and then boarded a commuter train which we also rode out twelve stops to the end. There were a British family and a German man going the same way with a Japanese tour guide who we guessed was also headed to Xochimilco, later on we saw them on a boat next to us in the canal.

One thing I deduced from the train ride is that no matter where you go, whatever's next to the train line never looks pretty. However, I did see an add for Luna Nueva (attention Twilight fans) that entertained me and lots of beautiful bougainvillea hanging from the walls of houses along the way. One thing that sort of amazed me when we first arrived and continues to do so, is that architechture essentially looks the same everywhere except the United States. We barrel along the highway or train line here and I feel like I could be in Greece or out in the burbs in France. Way more compact, utilitarian and inward facing - courtyards behind large locked garage doors instead of a yard that faces out to the world.

When we arrived in Xochimilco we went on a mission to find me some sunglasses and a bathroom at the local market. This market was much larger than Coyoacan and somewhat overwhelming. However, they had many more goods and I highly enjoyed looking at the fruits and vegetables piled high. The pineapples, huge fruit baskets and tiaras for sale were some of my favorites. Later in the day we bought a pineapple for $1.50 that was divine. We took it home and I ended up eating a third of it in one sitting.

Market shot.


Gigantic buckets of dried chiles.


Pineapple pile with watermelon.


Fruit baskets for sale.

After obtaining a pair of cheap sunglasses we walked through town to an embarcadero, or boat dock to hire a trajinera that would take us on the canals. They are huge, colorful flat-bottomed barges with colorful paper signs that stick up into the air and say the name of the boat. They each have two names, always named for women. Ours was called the Alejandra. Our paddle man navigated the boat out of the sea of other boats crunched tight at the dock rowing with a long, long stick standing up at the back of the boat. Each of the boats have a long table with chairs where you can enjoy food or sit with friends. Most of the people packed large groups onto their boats and were partying it up with family. We just had the two of us on our twelve-seater, with a bucket of Victoria beer and an extra long quesadilla filled with huitlacoche (corn mold) and chiles.

At the dock.


Eating our huitlacoche.


Out on the canals.


Boat detail.


Boat detail parte dos.


Canalside animals: lazy doggies.


Canalside animals: ducks.


Canalside animals: graceful white bird.


Canalside animals: gigantic xolo = dog.


On the canals there are many small boats with vendors selling things that you can buy along your journey. Ry bought me a little basket of flowers with an orchid, roses and a ribbon to sit on our table. We didn't buy anything else but there is nearly anything you could want including little bags of potato chips, candy apples, cooked corn, tacos, beer, crafts and boats of musicians who will tie up to your boat and play a song for you. There were many flower nurseries and private homes along the canals. We didn't stop at the nurseries knowing we wouldn't be able to bring anything home but there were awesomely huge bonsais for sale. Toward the end of the ride we got out of our seats and sat at the front end of the boat to catch some rays.

Boat bouquet.


Things for sale: potato chips and candy apples. Notice the vendor's shirt. Clearly this man is a team player. Ry says that many reject items from American thrift stores end up down in Mexico. I imagine this is some kind ridiculous coroprate castoff t-shirt.


Things for sale:elote boat = corn boat.


Things for sale: music. Mariachi boat tied up to another with tunes.


Things for sale: flower vendor paddles by in canoe.









Soaking up every last bit together.


When we got back into town we visited the big church in the central square. It was quite a bit older than many others we've been to and had a great cloister with an awesome statue of Juan Diego wearing his cloak with the image of the Virgen De Guadalupe on it. There were also groups of carpenters refinishing and repairing the ornate wooden pews out in the courtyard.










Various shots of the Xochimilco cathedral.











Various shots of a small church and town sqaure we stumbled upon when lost. It's all decked out for Easter.


We took the train home and by the time we got back into the Centro I was totally fried from sun, lack of food, puffed up limbs with swollen bug bites and a general sense being overwhelmed by the number of people out on the street in rush hour. We made it back to our apartment where I had a mini meltdown and took some time to rest.

Ry and I walked to a cantina called Salon Corona for dinner. We enjoyed beer, al pastor tacos, and caldo de camaron. The shrimp soup came in a tall, clear glass. When I started fishing around in it I discovered a gigantic prawn with eyes and legs still attached. I pushed it back into the broth so I couldn't see it and passed it over to Ryan. I know shrimp have eyes and legs, and that having them on the creature is an indication it's fresh, but I just couldn't look at the little guy in that moment. Probably for the same reason being next to the meat stalls in the market makes my stomach churn. I asked Ry to do the dirty work of pulling the prawn's head off. Once I finally got a little taste, he was pretty yummy.

We walked home and went to bed soon after we arrived. I've been amazed how tired I am each day, even when it feels like we are not doing that much. The combination of the sun, altitude and walking miles on cobblestones and crooked pavement is catching up with me. I slept like a baby.

Today we are headed off to have breakfast at a rooftop restaurant overlooking the Zocalo. Ry hopes that we can catch a glimpse of the volcanic mountains outside the city that are usually smogged in during the day. Then we're planning to see some Diego Rivera murals, visit the artisan market and head back to Coyoacan to see the Frida Museum since we missed it the other day.